Ideal Skincare Routine? Not as Overwhelming as You May Think

During the first lockdown in March of 2020, many of us experienced a lot of free time cooped up in our house. This unexpected free time gave me the opportunity to explore my interests and hobbies as well as other activities I wanted to try. This quarantine helped me find a passion for exercise and working out, but it also gave me the time to sit down and figure out what were the best products for my skin. 

I had always known that I could use creams and such to help protect my skin from harmful UV rays, help prevent acne, and also alleviate any future wrinkles. However, I never really took the time to figure out what the right method was and I often was overwhelmed with how many products could be used. Do you do a routine in the morning? At night? Both? I asked my friends and family only to receive wildly different information. 

After researching dermatologists recommendations, I have started to compile a list of what routine(s) should be established and for what purpose. Included below are dermatologists recommendations for a morning routine and night time routine. But first, let’s start with the order.

You do not need an eight-step skincare routine! Most faces do not require more products, so fewer is better, especially if you’re just starting off. Dr. Ashley Magovern, a board-certified dermatologist and owner and founder of Manhattan Dermatology, says to follow three simple steps: cleanse, treat, and moisturize. What does it mean to treat your skin? 

• If you are you suffering from dry skin, then consider adding face oil or a hydrating serum

• Do you have acne-prone skin? Add on a retinoid or an acne toner. 

Remember, keep it simple because adding too many products can irritate your skin. So go slow and keep it simple. 

Alright, so now that we have routines established, let’s get into the nitty gritty of what dermatologists recommend for your skin. 

CLEANSER: Both for morning and night!

The first step is to always remove your makeup before adding any products to your face. “For ingredients to absorb properly, you need clean skin that’s totally free of oil and grime,” says dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, associate clinical professor at Yale School of Medicine.

The way you wash your face is important. Gentle face washes are better for your skin than a makeup wipe, which can be harsh and irritating to your skin. It can actually break down the barrier of your skin, especially if you are using more active ingredients down the line. 

Dermatologists recommended options:

• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser

• La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser

• CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser (my personal favorite) 

TONER: For morning and/or night

One way to treat your skin is to use a toner which can specifically help with a variety of different ailments for your skin. "I think that adding a middle step in between the cleansing and moisturizing components is really important," says Dr. Magovern. "It can make a huge difference over time and in the health of your skin and just in the appearance and the aging of your skin." 

Today’s toners are filled with gentle and hydrating ingredients to help dry skin or chemical exfoliants to help treat acne. “They’re essentially just priming your face for ingredients to be better absorbed later on,” says Dr. Gohara. 

There are a billion different toners made, each with different treatments for your skin. Toners filled with BHA (beta hydroxy acid, similar to salicylic acid) or AHA (alpha hydroxy acid, like glycolic or lactic acid), help to unclog pores, prevent breakouts, and dissolve blackheads over time. BHA works better for oily skin and AHA helps dry skin. 

After cleansing your skin, tap it over clean and dry skin. Make sure to wait a full five minutes before putting anything else on, or else you’ll neutralize the acids before the toner can use its full potential. 

And like most steps on this list, toners are optional! Depending on how you want to take care of your skin and the treatment you want for it, toners can go a long way to helping, so you might want to consider this as your in between cleanser and moisturizer.  

OTHER TREATMENTS: Serums, Eye treatments, Spot Treatments, Face Oil, Etc 

Serums, according to Dr. Gohara, are “essentially just shots of extremely concentrated nutrients, hydrators, and antioxidants that really amp up your skin health as soon as you apply them.” Although these are totally optional, they are considered to be a good step for leveling up your skincare routine. Dr. Magovern recommends a vitamin C serum to help reverse the effects of harmful UV rays and air pollution on your skin. This would be used for the morning and help mitigate any damage done to your skin. 

Eye creams are generally lighter so make sure to put this on before you put on any heavy creams and oils. Remember, the rule of your skin care routine is you want to do lighter before going heavier. So, if you choose to do eye creams, whether at morning or night, then make sure it’s earlier in your routine. 

These are all optional depending on your goal and personal treatment for your skincare routine. If you’re looking to treat acne, look no further than spot treatments for nighttime use. That’s when your body is fighting the hardest to repair itself. However, if you are using a daytime spot treatment, make sure you are careful of what is in your toner and/or retinol to make sure you’re not irritating your skin. Regardless of when you apply it, make sure you tap it on before your moisturizer so it can penetrate your skin and do its magic.

MOISTURIZERS: Morning and night! 

This step is for both morning and night and is considered to be the most important step of your skincare routine. There is a formula for you, no matter what your skin type is, because moisturizer is the best thing for keeping your skin healthy. Shereene Idriss, MD, a cosmetic dermatologist in NYC, says that “a moisturizer not only infuses your skin with hydration but also helps trap in all the products underneath it to make the ingredients even more effective.”

Look for a light, hyaluronic-based moisturizer which will keep your skin feeling healthy and hydrated without it becoming too greasy or oily. When using it in the morning, consider getting one with SPF to help protect your skin against the sun as well as making sure it’s lighter so you can put your makeup on top. Whichever you choose, make sure to wait a full five minutes before you add your makeup (if this is the end of your routine and if you wear makeup!)

Your night moisturizer should be heavier and “should be filled with all the things your body naturally produces and can use more of, like hyaluronic acid, lipids, and proteins,” says Dr. Gohara. 

A few brief dermatologists recommended options:

• CeraVe Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 (morning use for normal skin) 

• Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer (night use for normal skin)

• Bubble Skincare Balancing Moisturizer (use for morning and for acne-prone skin)

• Squalane + Probiotic Gel Moisturizer (for night time and for acne-prone skin)

• Aveeno Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 30 (for normal to oily skin)   

In conclusion: 

How you treat your skin looks different for everyone. This varies depending if you are treating for oily, dry, or acne-prone skin. Age plays a role too, such as if you’re looking for serums that help with skin damage or bags under eyes. 

It’s important that if you want to have healthy skin for now and in the future, you should always go see your dermatologist for a consultation. Everyone has different skin so it’s important to ask your dermatologist what is best for your skin.